THE VEPR FORUM

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 10:57 am 
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Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2012 10:43 pm
Posts: 3035
Location: Yulee, Florida
I know Molot calls it a self-regulating gas system, but it is indeed simply wide open all of the time. I really wish they would have just offered these with a manually adjustable gas block like the Saiga 12. Not only does it paint me into a corner with tuning these weapons, it is absolutely punishing with 3" loads, especially when less than ideal technique is employed. I hope some of the below recommendations help you.



1- GK-01 or another Russian designed brake (none of this US made 'for cool factor' stuff). Big fat baffles or don't bother.

2- 22 lb or 24 lb 1911 springs, Careful to slightly tighten the first coil on the forward spring where it goes onto the guide rod. Experiment, replace both springs if you can get the guide rod apart without damaging it. It is not easy.

3- Use the factory guide rod.

4- Use the factory hammer spring.

5- Recoil absorbing stock. Seems weird to recommend that, but in this case it is appropriate.

6- You might experiment with an aftermarket puck. Making small grooves in the circumference, drilling 1/16" or so holes around the perimeter placed where the op rod will not block them, turn down the puck .005" or so on a lathe (a little reduction in diameter leads to a lot of gas loss).

7- Watch this and employ the very simple techniques. Control the weapon more adequately and reduce soreness and bruising.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17s9wLi1gDk

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2018 9:50 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 19, 2018 11:39 pm
Posts: 5
evlblkwpnz wrote:
1- GK-01 or another Russian designed brake (none of this US made 'for cool factor' stuff). Big fat baffles or don't bother.
2- 22 lb or 24 lb 1911 springs, Careful to slightly tighten the first coil on the forward spring where it goes onto the guide rod. Experiment, replace both springs if you can get the guide rod apart without damaging it. It is not easy.
3- Use the factory guide rod.
4- Use the factory hammer spring.
5- Recoil absorbing stock. Seems weird to recommend that, but in this case it is appropriate.
6- You might experiment with an aftermarket puck. Making small grooves in the circumference, drilling 1/16" or so holes around the perimeter placed where the op rod will not block them, turn down the puck .005" or so on a lathe (a little reduction in diameter leads to a lot of gas loss).
7- Watch this and employ the very simple techniques. Control the weapon more adequately and reduce soreness and bruising.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17s9wLi1gDk

1 I cant agree more, go big or go home which is why one of the GK series is scheduled to be purchased very soon =)

2 This is something I REALLY want to do, but I am treading very carefully in this particular area due to fear of messing it up so please brace yourself for some rather dumb questions. Just to be clear, the stuff about guns blowing up when you change the springs is about the weaker ones, and that anything stronger than stock shouldnt be an issue due to keeping the gun locked up longer, correct? Is there a specific length I should get? Would this one be okay https://www.midwayusa.com/product/10057 ... ment-22-lb ? Would the performance increase enough to be worth the hassle to disassemble the guide rod for someone who has never done it before? And if so, are there any tips you can give me for taking the assembly apart, and almost more importantly back together? I only have basic tools, bench vice and basic punches included. If not, would replacing just the front spring be worth the cost? Also To your knowledge if I replace the springs for heavier ones will it cause any sort of damage to the gun due to it slamming into the front trunnion harder?

3-4 You answered two questions before I could ask them! I now know to keep the stock guide rod and hammer spring, thank you!

5 I have a recoil pad on the vepr which is good enough for me as far as the recoil goes.

6 I unfortunately lack a lathe and a milling machine so this might be a little tricky but it has been something I've considered if all else fails. Im tempted to buy a Carolina Shooters/inexpensive one to to experiment and if anything goes wrong at least its not the OEM one or a permanent change! Would having too much gas bypassing the puck cause any sort of issue outside of just making things dirtier/not cycling?

7 Standing leaning forward like in your video is the only way to shoot the fun guns =)

Thank you so much for your input!!


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