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 Post subject: Muzzle Device question.
PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 5:15 pm 
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I just bought a vepr super in 308. I purchased a slotted muzzle break. But Ive just realized, with the front sight being integral, the raised part with the denten pin might look completely wrong... What should I expect when I remove the pinned thread nut? I am seeing pictures now where the barrel narrows before the threads. Will I need to rethink my muzzle device and get one that extends farther onto the barrel? and will I need a crush washer?


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 10:22 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 01, 2013 9:06 pm
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Location: Washington
It varies. If you are looking to keep the aesthetics comblock, your best bet is Dinzag Arms. His website has a few pictotorial guides.

http://www.dinzagarms.com/vepr/vepr.html

It's not his primary business right now, so I've heard that his response times are slower. I can vouch for the quality of his merch though.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2018 5:19 am 
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aronusa wrote:
I just bought a vepr super in 308. I purchased a slotted muzzle break. But I've just realized, with the front sight being integral, the raised part with the denten pin might look completely wrong... What should I expect when I remove the pinned thread nut? I am seeing pictures now where the barrel narrows before the threads. Will I need to rethink my muzzle device and get one that extends farther onto the barrel? and will I need a crush washer?


I've already removed my thread protector - very soft steel, came off easy once I remembered to unscrew in the "right" direction. I filled the cutting I did in the protector with epoxy and used Brownells epoxy to refinish so I can reuse it.

The barrel does narrow quite a bit and to be honest, I haven't quite figured out what to do. Barrel diameter is .650 and I suppose a short length of black tubing, delrin or metal alloy, could be slipped over. A 308 style crush washer fits fine. I would like to find a brake (in CA a FH is not allowed on a detach mag rifle) with about 1" of slipover to cover the thinning section of the barrel. Haven't found one yet. I suppose a slip-over fake silencer would work OK too.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2018 6:55 pm 
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Location: Washington
I do think that any muzzle devise including a thread protector which sticks past the crown at least 5 mm is a good idea for any gun.

It protects the crown from getting a ding if the muzzle ever bumps the ground. I'm convinced that this is the primary purpose of military flash hiders. Given the amount of scrambling around over rubble and rough ground, a trip and fall is pretty much a certainty for every rifle's life. One of my friends did a face plant in Marines basic, which took a core sample of the dirt with his flash hider. He tripped, and landed on his rifle with full pack on. The butt hit him in the chest, and the muzzle poked into the dirt and bottomed out on a rock. The force broke his stock (I think he said it was CAR style) and also the plastic hand-guards.

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P.M. me if you want help:
modify or fix your gun

shotguns, some gunsmithing, reloading, fabrication, knife making, etc.

I'm a firearms/NFA attorney in Wa. Let's combine business, pleasure, and stamps.

http://www.youtube.com/user/armaggedonite


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2018 6:36 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2018 4:52 am
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I'm pretty good with hand tools and know my limitations. After removing the thread protector and finding the barrel thinned at an angle just behind the threads I change the threading to 9/16X24LH. I used a hand tool threader with the correct tap, TAT and lots of cutting oil. I used an extra FAL short Austrian brake that has a bit of "slip-over" to cover the barrel - had to open up the "slip-over" section just a bit to accommodate the Hunter slightly wider barrel diameter. Cost is under $20.00.

https://www.dsarms.com/p-16943-dsa-sa58 ... -left.aspx


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