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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2015 5:35 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 28, 2012 10:38 pm
Posts: 1907
Location: Arkansas, USA (NWA)
Keep us posted on reassembly. It will become easy very soon. ;)

Many people mention the bother of fitting mags, so I feel compelled to explain. CSSpecs mags are designed and manufactured to need to be fitted. The fact that the guns have varying tolerances necessitates custom fitting. Custom fit means best fit and reliability - it's an important feature. Needing to custom fit means the product is designed as it should be.

Enjoy the awesome mags! Pics are always smiled upon! 8-)

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 20, 2015 4:37 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 26, 2015 4:26 am
Posts: 12
Nephilim7 wrote:
Sorry I took so long to respond. Didn't want to tell you the wrong thing from memory.

With disassembled bolt carrier group, make sure safety is off. Cock hammer to make room.

Hold bolt by stem as if it were a rose. Turn the rotating head ccounterclockwise until it stops. You will see that many of the flat surfaces between the two pieces are now aligned. The bolt must be kept at this relative position between the two parts for the reminder of reassembly.

Hold the carrier in the palm of your hand with index finger along the piston pointed upward. It helps to have last few fingers on either side of the charging handle - it should happen almost naturally. Insert the bolt stem-first into the hole in the carrier. I'm obviously describing to insert so the bolt face will be under the piston part of the carrier if the group were to be turned level.

While bolt is in place, with carrier piston pointed skyward, rotate the entire bolt (leave the bolt pieces aligned) clockwise until the timing lug of the bolt stops in the timing channel of the carrier.

With these in place, hold the group level with the ground with piston at 12 o'clock. Help the bolt to slide forward in the timing channel while rotating the two pieces together. The bolt will rotate as it cams forward and comes to rest in its forward position. The extractor will be near the 1 o'clock position with the piston facing away from you.

This is the orientation required for insertion of the BCG into the receiver. The rest from here is for right handed people. If you are a lefty, adapt to find your own way.

Place middle finger behind charging handle and index finger in front. Press forward on the left side of the bolt head with the thumb. Now the assembly is ready for insertion.

Start the piston into the gas tune. Then, slide the assembly forward to stop the rear just in front of the rear trunnion (part at the back of the receiver that gets smacked by the carrier during fire) . The locking lugs of the bolt (your thumb is pressing against the back of one) will be just above the receiver rails.

Press down firmly (you are depressing the already cooked hammer as well. Make the lugs ride the rails as you slide the BCG into the forward position until locked and fully forward. The bolt tail should be the most rearward part of the entire BCG at this point.

It is best to let the hammer down with your left thumb pressing from the front and right hand pulling the trigger. The hammer will rest against the bolt tail and hold the assembly securely in place. Otherwise, the assembly is prone to falling out when the barrel is pointed up. Not what you want.

Then, insert the recoil assembly into the top rear of the carrier and press it forward, loading the spring, to allow the recoil "keeper" to rest in its channel above the rear trunnion.

Close the dust cover and do a function check or two. Done.

That was really hard to type on my itty bitty phone! Hope it helps. Let me know if you need elaboration or more specifics.

Let us know how it goes, OP! :D


First part really helped, clarified that I needed to turn the swivel part of the bolt all the way counter clock wise.

Second part, I tried to consolidate with the video you sent, at the 3:00 minute mark the guy points the piston part of the carrier downwards after inserting to demonstrate how the bolt will slide down the channel and stop on it's own.

I admit, I'm making this more complicated than it should be lol. But I saw the first attempt when I had it in, and slid the carrier in with the bolt... it scratched up a lot of unpainted things, tore up the bolt a little too looks like, lol... no real damage, just scratches...

I wanted to give ya a shoutout Nephilim7, thanks for your effort in trying to help me with this thorough walk through, especially considering that you wrote it on your phone!

As of now, the Vepr12 is still in pieces, I ended up spraying the bolt with a little bit of CLP, it was getting dry from me handling bare handed and leaving it out for this long, I remembered being a little more lubed when I first took it out, so I hit with some CLP... also slathered just a small dab of Redline Synthetic bearing grease in the channels of the bolt carrier where the bolt runs through.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 20, 2015 5:34 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 28, 2012 10:38 pm
Posts: 1907
Location: Arkansas, USA (NWA)
Glad to have helped!

Is there still a hang up in assembly?

There are several ways to skin this cat. Basically, make sure the bolt is fully forward and head in correct position for insertion. It does help to tip the muzzle ends of gun and carrier group down for insertion. As soon as tip of piston is in gas tube, you should be able to let the rear of the carrier press down in front of the front face of the rear trunnion. Basically same position as when carrier is completely rearward during cycling. While holding down firmly to keep carrier in line and allow piston to slide straight into gas tube, slide it forward vigorously to ram past the hammer below. The hammer spring is stiff and fighting you in the first half of insertion. Then the carrier group should slide easily fully forward.

Pretty much what I said above but maybe it helps.

A wet gun will work fine for a while, but it will get dirty much quicker. I recommend minimal oil (just a sheen) and only in a few places where things are moving. I keep oil from inside the bolt, bolt face, chamber, barrel, ports, gas block, puck, gas tube, and piston. Those are all designed for completely dry operation. Any wetness at all in those areas attracts debris and can choke the gun. Run your gun as you wish. Other opinions vary.

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Click this link to access Amazon. Costs you nothing, but Vepr.org gets paid a little every time you purchase this way. Help keep the lights on here for free. THANKS!!! http://amzn.to/2muRjz9

Praise the LORD, an' pass the amma-nition!


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 20, 2015 5:37 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 28, 2012 10:38 pm
Posts: 1907
Location: Arkansas, USA (NWA)
BTW, that video was sent without listening to it at all and just scrubbing thru to where he went to insert the carrier group. I was at work and it seemed like he knew how to do it. Lol. No telling what is actually depicted. Seemed good at a glance. ;)

_________________
Click this link to access Amazon. Costs you nothing, but Vepr.org gets paid a little every time you purchase this way. Help keep the lights on here for free. THANKS!!! http://amzn.to/2muRjz9

Praise the LORD, an' pass the amma-nition!


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 20, 2015 8:51 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 26, 2015 4:26 am
Posts: 12
Nephilim7 wrote:
Glad to have helped!

Is there still a hang up in assembly?

There are several ways to skin this cat. Basically, make sure the bolt is fully forward and head in correct position for insertion. It does help to tip the muzzle ends of gun and carrier group down for insertion. As soon as tip of piston is in gas tube, you should be able to let the rear of the carrier press down in front of the front face of the rear trunnion. Basically same position as when carrier is completely rearward during cycling. While holding down firmly to keep carrier in line and allow piston to slide straight into gas tube, slide it forward vigorously to ram past the hammer below. The hammer spring is stiff and fighting you in the first half of insertion. Then the carrier group should slide easily fully forward.

Pretty much what I said above but maybe it helps.

A wet gun will work fine for a while, but it will get dirty much quicker. I recommend minimal oil (just a sheen) and only in a few places where things are moving. I keep oil from inside the bolt, bolt face, chamber, barrel, ports, gas block, puck, gas tube, and piston. Those are all designed for completely dry operation. Any wetness at all in those areas attracts debris and can choke the gun. Run your gun as you wish. Other opinions vary.


Thanks man! Yeah, it's all squared away now, I know exactly what you mean now, I needed better lighting too... that was something I should've done on the get go.

I also took heed to your suggestion regarding it being more dry... I wiped off the lube, lol... also saw how much dust and crap accumulated on the spring from just leaving it sit out there for almost 2 weeks, pissed off at myself... wiped it clean too though, now I know to definitely pay attention to those things if I'm going to leave it open for a while.

The video helped non the less, appreciate it man... you really helped out.


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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2018 3:21 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 08, 2014 7:04 pm
Posts: 128
This vid will explain it very clearly (with still shots) yes its a S-12 but the process is the same for the bolt and carrier.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KGY9Pj9LFyc

The CSSPECS mags are probably the best mags you can get for a V-12 (or S-12), besides possibly the factory mags. I say possibly because the CSSPECS are heavier but also more durable and much more reasonably priced. I dont believe you will have any problems with them once fitted properly.

As far as fitment, my guess is that CSSPECS play it safe in giving you a generous amount of material on the lock up tabs to fit each mag to the individual gun. When it comes to fitting anything in general, its always easier to remove material than it is to add it. Keep in mind that Russian firearms (especially S-12/V-12) are not generally manufactured with the utmost precision and there are acceptable +/- tolerances that will still be considered as within spec. I have heard that the factory provided magazines that come with the S-12 are fitted to each individual gun and that may also be the case with Molot's V-12. CSSPECS are upfront with the likely need to fit their magazines. Refer to CSSPECS vid, take your time, fit check regularly and you should have no problems.


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