Atterete Dominatum
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2019 12:05 pm 

Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2014 9:42 pm
Posts: 12

I am currently trying to get my VEPR 12 to work reliably with 28 gram loads, but I have some issues.

The following has been done to the gun:
    Cleared fouled gas ports and increased them to 2.2 millimeters
    Replaced gas block, removed a lot of material to expose the gas ports and make it fit (my gas ports are off center as well...)
    Installed an ALG EMR V1 tube, cut out done for the gas system and it is fit to the barrel via a custom aluminium bushing that is press fit around the barrel
    Internals polished a bit here and there, hopefully in mostly the right places
    Large aluminium flared magwell installed
    Extended mag release
    ALG AKT (the old original one)
    LAC enhanced bolt hold open
    GK01 russian compensator (GK03 on the way)
    I got about 5 different gas pucks
    I got numerous springs I have tried
    New grip and probably a few other things I forgot about

As you can see, I put waaay to much work and energy into this gun, more then it deserves.

I am currently trying to get it to reliably reload 28 gram slug and buckshot loads, I hope to reach 24 gram loads as well one day, but it seems to be a far way off with this rifle.

Currently I cannot get it to reload with the original springs, lightening the front spring enables reload but will occationally cause failures to feed the new cartridge from the magazine.
On top of this I recently installed an old ALG AKT trigger, the first one released. This increased the drag in the system making it even more unreliable.

I have polished and removed a lot of material from it, but it is very time consuming since disassembly takes a fair bit of time I thought Id make a post here to make sure I am focusing on the right thing.

Question, can I remove more material from the top of the trigger hook holding the hammer or does it need to be depressed by the bolt carrier when cycling the action.
It only contacts the carrier when the trigger is not depressed and in doing so seem to lift the disconnector. But I assume that should never happen?

Second question, can I remove more material from the bottom of the bolt carrier or should I refrain from that? This would make it easier to reduce friction since its easier to remove and work on. Its also rather thick.
Here is the bottom of my bolt carrier:

Im also worried about lightening the hammer too much giving me a future problem with light strikes on primers.

Ill try and get some pictures up so you can see better what I mean.
Please let me know if I missed something, but this is getting rediculous, each and every part I buy for it requires fitting...
I seriously spent 20 hours on it this week and it is starting to get on my nerves.

PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2019 8:40 pm 

Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2014 9:42 pm
Posts: 12
Ok, Im a bit surprised so many read my post and I got no replies.

Anyway, put about 2-3 hours into the action today and did the following:

Smoothed out the action around the area where it closes and opens the bolt.
Took some material off the trigger components to reduce drag.

I have been adviced not to touch the mating surfaces where the bolt closes and figured its probably a good idea to be careful in that area.
My solution was to cycle the gun manually. I really have no idea about the number of times, I just put some earphones on and cycled it for about 1 hour while watching youtube.
Definetly more then one per second, had to work hard in the beginning and I can really tell a difference now.
Before I could barely move it with my hand in certain spots, basically if I did not move it fast it would get stuck enough for the spring not to be able to push it into its locked position.
Now I can tilt the rifle about 45 degrees towards the floor and let the carrier go with no spring and it will lock up just from gravity. (not a new gun, just always had huge issues with it)

As for the ALG AKT trigger, I removed some material from the top of the sear hook so that it no longer interferes with the bolt carrier. This reduced drag by a good amount. This is away from the sear surface, never touched those.
I also took some more off the hammer profile where it interfaces with the bolt carrier. I ensured the profile is still square where it is striking the striker.
I was also careful to ensure the hammer is depressed about 1 mm past the disconnector hook when cycling the action.
Both these things really reduced drag by a huge amount.

The trigger work has not been that bad to do, I knew its not meant for this gun when I started.
What has really ticked me off is the fact that each and every upgrade to the gun has required filing, fitting or just plain modifying things.
The magwell and mag release with the hidden spring and pushing a pin through 6 holes and said spring each time I had to tear things apart was a proper pain and just about the most annoying thing I have ever done on any of my guns.

Anyway, rant done. Ill write an update as soon as I have tested the gun.
The next step is to ensure the trigger works as intended with live ammo, install yet another gas puck and start experimenting with spring strength if needed to ensure it reloads properly.
If I can get the energy for it Ill post some pictures as well. Might help if someone else has similar issues or wild ideas to fit the same trigger.

PostPosted: Mon Jul 08, 2019 11:14 am 

Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2014 9:42 pm
Posts: 12
Ok, have not had the time to test it at the range since I had to much fun with one of my other rifles this weekend.

I did notice a few areas that might need improving:

The spring guiderod has an incredible amount of slop in it and the picture above does not do it justice.
I can probably move the thing up towards 7-8mm (~1/4") by just pushing/pulling on it.
Some people believe this can cause some unnecessary drag when cycling the gun. After playing with it I think I agree.

New after market spring guide with delrin bushing ordered. I already have a new gas puck and a high power hammer spring on the way.

Hopefully this will be the last parts I need to make this thing work the way I want it.

PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2019 3:51 pm 

Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2014 9:42 pm
Posts: 12
New day, new surprises!

On the right hand side, my original MOLOT 8 round magazine bought in 2014.
On the left hand side, 2 MOLOT 10 round magazines I bought yesterday.

My carefully adjusted magazine latch (as per instructions it was adjusted in length) that work with my old magazines will not hold the new magazines securely.
They can move around and from testing at home I will most likely have to buy a new magazine latch, adjust it to fit the new magazines and then modify the old magazines to make them fit as well.

In my experience any movement in the magazines will drop it each time you pull the trigger.
This has already happened to me once, a club member filmed it and made a meme of me dropping mags earlier this summer, I dont want to become another meme :lol:

Unfortunately magazine latch adjustment is just about as painful of an operation as I can imagine on this gun due to the hidden spring and pin that holds it all together through maglatch, magwell and receiver. :cry:
I will try this setup on the range, but I dont have high hopes. Will be very glad if it works though.

PostPosted: Sun Jul 14, 2019 1:20 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2012 10:43 pm
Posts: 3101
Location: Hero, Florida
Experiment with the hammer profile, not the bolt carrier. The FCG is much cheaper to buy and easier to find if you go too far and need to start over. The aftermarket guide rod is not necessary and in some cases can work against reliability. If you were watching my videos while cycling the action by hand ;) you saw guns that have factory springs and factory guide rods. Maybe 2 of them do not have totally factory recoil assemblies and I was not thrilled about it when I was working on them because everything I do to these guns in regards to action work and gas work is based on using factory recoil assemblies.

What country are you in? The mention of loads by gram makes me think you are somewhere other than the USA.


Custom Saiga-12, Vepr-12, KS-12, and Lynx builds
(SBS and reliability are my specialties)
Cerakote and Moly Resin refinishing
AK100 installs
...and more


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