THE VEPR FORUM

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2013 1:56 am 
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There are instructionals for those with the normal front sight post. This is for the integrated sight model VEPR.


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1) The cap is screwed on and covers the last 3/4" or so of the muzzle. The threaded part, from the end in, is only about 1/2". The last section under that thread cap is smooth and is where the pin is wedged in to prevent thread cap rotation..and then welded to the cap. If you grind the area that is welded over the pin until you break through the cap, the pin will probably pop out or the thread cap will rotate a little and that's as far as you need to go.


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This is the location where I ground down the welded end of the pin and the thread cap


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Here's a blurry pic showing the moment I broke through the cap and freed the pin, which flew out as the cap freely rotated


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This shows the cap removed, the area I ground away on the cap to free the pin, and the remainder of the pin. Notice I also wrapped the end of the barrel with thick rubber tape to prevent wayward dremel bits!


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Another pic of the removed cap, muzzle end, and the pin. You can see where the pin rests in the barrel under the cap.


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While waiting for my CNC Warrior muzzle device, I thought I'd refinish the stock since it only has a single and inadequate shellac finish on that beautiful walnut. I used oderless mineral spirits and one of those sponge type brushes to thoroughly moisten the stock, then using a blue shop towel (or rag) I was able to rub off the previous finish. Reapplying the mineral spirits a few times and rubbing off got the stock clean and smooth.

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Once dry (I also used 0000 steel wool and mineral spirits to remove some old finish), I started applying some high gloss (I recommend low gloss...its what I used on my Mosin Nagant years ago and looks better) with a different foamy brush making sure it was even. This walnut wood soaked it up. After 12-18 hours it was dry (not sticky to the touch). Another layer of oil, 12-18hrs later, another, until I had 4 coats. Looks like a laminated stock. Really brings out the walnut lines and color nicely. I wished I used a little red stain first...maybe another day I'll strip off the tung oil and stain with some orange or redish stain and recoat with tung oil.


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All pretty and done. The muzzle device screwed right on (14x1LH threads) and at it's tightest it splits the top with two of the gas grooves on the attachment. LIned up perfectly I was bummed it didn't have a bottom to keep the top down, but then shimming would be necessary. Will be taking it out Saturday to test braking ability with and without it on to see if there's a difference. I'll get stills from high framerate video and use that to compare muzzle rise. I'll have to get a Dinzag FCG and maybe the piston if I can find an American one..if not, I'll have to use those crappy 10 rounders to make the gun "whole."


*CNC WARRIOR RUSSIAN MUZZLE DEVICE review down several posts, with pictures.*


Last edited by jpcmt on Sat Apr 13, 2013 8:44 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2013 2:41 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 29, 2013 6:46 pm
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Location: Albuquerque NM
Looks great and thanks for the pictorial, makes it easier for the new guys to start digging into their veprs.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2013 7:10 pm 
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How exactly are you locking the new muzzle device/brake into place? Pinning it? I'm used to all my aks having the little button that locks the brake in place.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 1:43 am 
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Very nice post, and good work. VEPR looks great!

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 2:14 am 
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merdenoms wrote:
How exactly are you locking the new muzzle device/brake into place? Pinning it? I'm used to all my aks having the little button that locks the brake in place.


Just got it tightened down. Since it has no bottom I could pretty much just tighten it to the base or use a shim to get it where I want it. But as it is, tightened down pretty good, it aligned nicely. I'm aware that red loctite wouldn't do much since the heat will break down any adhesion, but I may try that if I see the brake loosening. If all else fails I suppose I could put a pin in it. I'll find out when I put some rounds through it.

I've screwed down an AK muzzle device as well as a couple different AR muzzle devices without any pinning or notches like the AK has at the sight base and haven't had any walk off for several hundred rounds. Hopefully this 54r doesn't walk my brake off!


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 9:08 am 
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Location: East Texas
you should probably use a jam nut with that

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 10:49 pm 
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Came out great!

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 7:53 pm 
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What about a crush washer?


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2013 8:37 pm 
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Ok, I got out and within the 30 rounds or so that I fired, the end unscrewed maybe half a turn. So it's a little loose. I also realized that the thing doesn't fit very snug on the threads to begin with..there is some play so maybe CNC Warriors muzzle device isn't exactly to the same spec as the barrel end. No worries, It's still a fine *flash hider. And I did fire a couple mags without the FH on and then I put it on and it's hard to know if it reduced any felt recoil...I think it did but I may have just wanted it to bad enough so I convinced myself. In other words, it wasn't noticable enough of a difference in felt recoil. I did notice a drastic reduction in fire out the front so that's a plus and well worth the money spent on it -*and I am now categorizing it as a flash hider (FH) from now on.

Anywho, I put a good dose of red loctite #271 on it for next time to see if it even makes a difference. I"m assuming the heat generated will negate the locking of the threads. If not, awesome, no need for a crush washer. Otherwise, that'll be the next step - a nice crush washer.

A design recommendation for CNC Warrior; Since the Integrated Sight model of the VEPR has no spring loaded pin to seize rotation of the muzzle device, and since there's that large tapering end/gap at the end of the barrel before reaching the threads, perhaps a hooded area can be added on the muzzle device, or maybe the back end of the muzzle device (the end closest to the barrel) can taper towards the end to reduce the gap it has..or a general thinning of the device. ALso, shipping the muzzle device with a shim/crush washer since on the IS model, the cnc warrior device goes all the way to thread lock without touching anything. Of course I say these things with zero background in designing of such devices so I'm sure its easier said than done. I'm happy the way it is. It looks great and cuts down the fire some.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 11:37 am 
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FYI the AR15 doesn't have a pin like the AK does. They are often thread locked on or have crush washer or jamb nut.

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